No. 87: Ann Lowe

Episode Transcript

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What if I told you the most iconic wedding dress in American history was designed by a Black woman—whose name most people don’t even know?

Hey everyone, I’m Shae, a PhD candidate at Harvard, and welcome to "100 Historic Black Women You Should Know By Election Day." Today, we’re diving into the life of Ann Lowe, the visionary designer who dressed America’s elite but often went unrecognized for her incredible work.

Ann Lowe was born in Clayton, Alabama, in 1898 into a family of seamstresses, and it didn’t take long for her to pick up the trade. By the time she was a teenager, Ann was already crafting stunning gowns for Alabama’s high society. Her natural talent and eye for design set her apart, and at just 16 years old, she took over her late mother’s dressmaking business.

In the 1920s, Ann moved to Tampa, Florida, where she opened her own salon. But her ambitions didn’t stop there. She set her sights on New York City, where she enrolled in S.T. Taylor Design School. Despite the challenges of being the only Black student and facing overt racism—she was often segregated from her white classmates—Ann excelled and graduated at the top of her class.

Ann Lowe’s designs quickly caught the attention of high society. In the 1950s, she became the go-to designer for the social elite, including the Rockefellers, the Roosevelts, and the du Ponts. But her most famous creation? The iconic wedding dress worn by Jacqueline Bouvier when she married John F. Kennedy in 1953. Although the world marveled at the gown, Ann’s role remained largely behind the scenes, and she received little public recognition at the time.

But there’s more to Ann Lowe’s story. After years of creating gowns for the wealthiest families in America, she still faced the harsh reality of being underpaid and undervalued because of her race. Despite designing dresses that graced the pages of Vogue and were worn to the most prestigious events, Lowe struggled to maintain her business. She was often paid far less than her white counterparts, and she fought to keep her salon open amid financial strain. Yet, her passion for design never wavered. Lowe’s work is now celebrated in museums, including the Smithsonian, ensuring her legacy as a pioneer of American fashion.

Here’s a dramatic twist: Just ten days before Jackie Kennedy’s wedding, a flood destroyed ten of the custom gowns Ann Lowe had created for the event, including the bride’s dress. Undeterred, Ann and her team worked day and night to recreate the dresses in time for the big day—at no extra cost to the Kennedy family.

If Ann Lowe’s story has inspired you as much as it has inspired me, please rate this podcast 5 stars so more people can discover the untold stories of these remarkable women. Don’t forget to follow me on social media for more engaging content, and be sure to subscribe to my YouTube channel for even deeper dives into the lives of these extraordinary figures. Thanks for tuning in, and I’ll see you next time on "100 Historic Black Women You Should Know By Election Day."

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No. 86: Edmonia Lewis

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No.88: Dr. Shirley Ann Jackson